Handing Over the Wheel

October 26, 2026 By Class55

The sun rose red over Kom El Dikka Agri Lodge this morning, physically and emotionally the farthest we’ve been from home. The lodge sits in the Fayoum Oasis on the shores of Lake Qarun, and breakfast was the abundant buffet we have grown accustomed to in Egypt: bread, olives, yogurt, molokhia Egyptian spinach), and foul (stewed fava beans), served from etched copper urns.

We checked out of our domed rooms, built in the traditional style with brick ceilings and plaster roofs, loaded our luggage onto the bus, and piled into eight Land Cruisers for our adventure out to Wadi Al-Hitan (Valley of the Whales). Our drivers were local men skilled at navigating both rural roads and sand dunes, and they showed off their prowess as we raced across the eastern Sahara, surging up the sides of dunes, riding the serpentine spines, and gliding headlong into the next trough. Kelly, Sam, and Logan’s driver was Abo Ans: definitely the most daring, swerving from the straight path just for the joy of it.

The desert is tricky, miles of smooth sand dunes will shift into rocky mountain outcrops, scattered with glittering gem like oases. After a few dune bashes, mountains carved by an ancient sea rose around us. If you didn’t know better, you’d think we were in Utah.

In the desert, the concept of time seems to make more sense. Millions of years have shaped the landscape. Without the distraction of many living things, the desert feels almost purely geological. It’s easier to think in terms of abstract concepts like eternity when the desert doesn’t live or die, simply it changes forms.

We found ourselves on a mostly straight paved road across a rockier stretch of desert, with signs counting down the kilometers to Wadi Al-Hitan, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Approaching the visitor center and Fossil & Climate Change Museum, we descended into what was once a shallow bay of the ancient Tethys Sea. Our guide, Goda, described the enormous carnivorous whales that lived in the valley in the late Eocene, hunting prehistoric fish amongst the long gone mangrove trees.

A short entry video explained a prehistoric ecosystem, ancient human civilizations that left relics here, and the creation of the UNESCO site, along with the local, traditional design of the buildings. Many of us were unaware of what the desert was about to reveal. We then followed Goda along a path past seven fossilized whale skeletons, from different species that lived and died in that ancient sea. The fossils lay where they were found, tucked into small mountain outcroppings or flat against the dunes. Ancient whale fossils, some nearly 18 meters long and 40 million years old, gave us a new appreciation for time and evolution. First discovered in the early 1900s, these fossils later revealed something remarkable: tiny hind legs and feet, evidence that the whales had evolved from land-dwelling mammals.

It’s incredible to think that something so significant could remain hidden in plain sight, waiting to be uncovered. What other truths lie beneath the sands, waiting to be discovered? How often might we revisit something we thought we understood, only to find there is more to the story? There emerged a sense of awe at our own insignificance in the scope of geological time. We occupy but the thinnest surface on the accumulated layers of history.

Back in the Land Cruisers, we drove off-road through stony desert to a high promontory, Jabal el Medawara, overlooking Wadi El Rayan Lake. The drive up was the stuff of nightmares, so steep it seemed we would peel off backwards. Without control over the wheel, the route, or what waited past each crest, the only choice was to trust these men whose skill had accumulated in layers over years of reading this terrain. The drivers were sure and confident, and their daring was thrilling. Somewhere between the first dune and the last crest, we traded our instinct to stay on guard for the opportunity to not be in charge, to step aside and honor the driver’s expertise and delight in his craft .

We stopped for photos at the top, then skidded down to “Magic Lake,” which changes color with the light and, according to Goda, was formed by agricultural runoff. Once again, we were in awe of the surprises the desert holds.

Lunch was at the Fayoumi Restaurant School, a delicious meal of salads, roasted vegetables, fish, and chicken, finished with two breads for dessert (banana and spice) that we spread with candied orange peel frosting. Afterward we sat under a covered patio for a pottery demonstration. The potter demonstrated his skill as he quickly centered his clay, made from the desert lake beside us and created a vase, turned it into a bowl, and then a plate, all while explaining how the local clay is collected and processed. After a few purchases in the pottery store, we piled onto the large tour bus for the two-hour ride back to the hotel in Giza for our last night in Egypt!

If we’ve learned anything in Egypt we’ve learned there is power in sharing a meal. At a dinner overlooking the Giza skyline, we ate with our guides from the past four days, reflecting on the adventures and side quests in this ancient country steeped in history. We shared pictures of our families, spoke about the similarities between our religions, languages and countries and remarked how much easier it is to share when you are honest about your intentions. As we trekked through museums, crawled through pyramids, shuffled through garbage city and raced across deserts there was a sense that we had only touched the surface of what Egypt has to offer. We’re off to Morocco, but we will all carry Egypt and her lessons with us as we move through the next few days. We want to extend our gratitude to everyone who made Egypt possible, our guides, security professionals, those who let us into their homes and shared their stories and finally those of you supporting us in our travels.

 You will hear from us again soon. Logan, Jordan and Casey

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

2 × 3 =